Island hopping in paradise: Robinson Crusoe villas and underwater spas on the ultimate girls' holiday in the Maldives
http://jattravel.blogspot.com/2013/11/island-hopping-in-paradise-robinson.html
'Seriously, it’s my idea of hell',
reads a text from my friend Andy as I bask on a teak sun lounger looking
out over the brilliant turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean.
Beside me is a beach 'welcome basket' containing an Evian Brumisateur, a lemongrass-infused face towel that was beautifully chilled when it arrived two minutes ago, and a glass of home-made iced tea.
We
bee-lined it to Edge, the bar and restaurant above Subsix, set in the
ocean and accessible only by boat, which provided the perfect setting
for the first of many sunset mojitos.
There are a few untruths I’d like to dispel about the Maldives. The first is prices; bottled house water (every resort makes its own water by desalination) is, in most places, free and in the four hotels we visited, cocktails averaged around USD$20-25 (£12-£15). If you don’t go mad, meals and wine are on a par with London prices.
We quickly learned the downside of island hopping; no sooner had we settled in, drinking champagne in our own private infinity pool and enjoying a massage in the glorious quiet haven of the Lime Spa, than it was time to jet off again.
From Male, a half-hour speedboat took us on to Huvafen Fushi (boat staff provide wristbands to combat sea sickness if required) and my sadness at leaving Niyama was quickly replaced with excitement - the likes of Kate Moss holiday here, and Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes visited the underwater spa during their honeymoon.
Every island has its own distinct identity. Huvafen is laid-back, chic and hums with Ibiza-esque cool. Here we found busy bars, paddle boarding and another stunning sunset bar at Raw that opened last October.
On the night we arrived, LA DJ Scarlette Etienne, here on holiday with her boyfriend, had set up decks at Raw for the night. Huvafen does bring in DJs throughout the year - in October 2012 DJ Ravin (producer of the Buddha Bar series) graced the decks and in December, Mr Hudson paid a party visit.
It all sounds very glam, and before our trip Vic and I had been frantically coordinating outfits, but there was no need. Shorts, t-shirts, bikinis, beach dresses, sunglasses and flip-flops is all you need here.
I packed one silk dress, which I saved
for Reethi Rah (who knows if Victoria and David Beckham might have been
visiting), where your butler will pack and unpack your case and iron one
garment. It was perfect for a swish dinner at the Japanese restaurant
Tapasake - the Maldives’ equivalent of Nobu.
Food here is a complete fusion; Indian and Asian influences, as well as European and American choices, amazing fresh fish, fruit, wonderful pastries and breads cooked freshly each day at every resort.
But as well as cocktails, music and fine dining, there is plenty to do; from masses of water sports and yoga to fantastic gyms, cooking classes and coral-planting schemes.
At Reethi Rah we went scuba diving at the only National Geographic PADI centre in the Maldives and trained at the newly opened Bodyism gym on the island.
There’s also a 6km running track and cycling - the island is 1.8km long, 500m wide and flat, and relatively cool under the trees - as well as virtual golf, a climbing wall, tennis courts and a croquet lawn.
In search of a more natural vibe, we then headed to the 'barefoot' Gili Lankanfushi, a 20-minute boat ride from Male, where guests’ shoes are whipped away on arrival and mobile phones discouraged.
Based on the Robinson Crusoe theme, Gili is about driftwood, stone, sand and eco-tourism. Every one of its 45 villas is set over the water - some only accessible by boat - so from the comfort of your own private deck you can watch the sharks, rays and clownfish (Nemos) dart in the crystal clear waters beneath and spy crabs clambering up the wet bungalow stills before shyly plopping back in the water as soon as you flinch. It’s magical.
The huge
villas feature an upper deck, and hitting Gili at full moon, our 'Man
Friday' Rasheed offered to make up the bed on the roof. Sleeping under
the stars is a must, though I confess to dragging my bedding back
downstairs to the cool air-conditioned bedroom at around 2am.
The next day though, we had to drag ourselves back to the UK. Gili was the perfect end, so close to the airport, but it was a huge wrench and as we devoured fresh tuna burgers by the beach bar, while our speedboat waited to take us to Male, we wondered 'would the boys have enjoyed it?' I don’t doubt it. This place is paradise on earth.
Beside me is a beach 'welcome basket' containing an Evian Brumisateur, a lemongrass-infused face towel that was beautifully chilled when it arrived two minutes ago, and a glass of home-made iced tea.
Girls' getaway: Abigail and her friend Vic enjoy cocktails on the beach at the One and Only Reethi Rah
I’m at
the One and Only Reethi Rah resort in the Maldives, and it’s picture
perfect, certainly not hell. But paradise for women is not paradise for
some men, like Andy - nor Chris, the husband of my friend Vic who is
lying next to me, nose in book.
Vic has been unable to drag Chris to the Maldives - even on their honeymoon - so we decided to ditch the chaps and keep the spas, white sands and cocktails to ourselves on the ultimate girls' holiday.
The Maldives is made up of 1,900 islands in 26 atolls spread over about 90,000 square kilometres. About 200 islands are inhabited - mainly one hotel per island - so instead of trying to choose one, we decided to island hop.
Traditionally more of a honeymoon destination, thanks to a surge in ex-pats and local visitors from the Middle East and Asia, groups of friends are far more commonplace here and hotels are cottoning on to the fact people want to move around.
As fuel is hugely expensive locally, it’s advisable to stay within the same or neighbouring atolls to keep transfers short and cheap. We plumped for the North Male Atoll, but started slightly further afield with Niyama in the Dhaalu Atoll, the sister property of our second destination, Huvafen Fushi.Island hopping conjures up images of packing onto steamy, diesel-smelling ferries between Greek islands. Not in the Maldives. Here, it’s seaplanes and speedboats from the capital of Male (a direct flight from the UK); maybe the boys wouldn’t have been so bored after all.
And so it was that we found ourselves arriving like Bond girls, flying into Niyama and landing in the sea. Open since March last year, this place is fresh and funky, with Subsix the only underwater nightclub in the Maldives (and where you can take a DJing course).
There is a superbly-equipped gym and Niyama’s range of five-star beach and water villas all have popcorn and Nespresso machines, iPads and iPod docks, REN products in the open-air bathrooms and home-made ice-cream in the freezers.
Vic has been unable to drag Chris to the Maldives - even on their honeymoon - so we decided to ditch the chaps and keep the spas, white sands and cocktails to ourselves on the ultimate girls' holiday.
The Maldives is made up of 1,900 islands in 26 atolls spread over about 90,000 square kilometres. About 200 islands are inhabited - mainly one hotel per island - so instead of trying to choose one, we decided to island hop.
Traditionally more of a honeymoon destination, thanks to a surge in ex-pats and local visitors from the Middle East and Asia, groups of friends are far more commonplace here and hotels are cottoning on to the fact people want to move around.
Paradise found: The One and Only Reethi Rah is located on the idyllic North Male Atoll
As fuel is hugely expensive locally, it’s advisable to stay within the same or neighbouring atolls to keep transfers short and cheap. We plumped for the North Male Atoll, but started slightly further afield with Niyama in the Dhaalu Atoll, the sister property of our second destination, Huvafen Fushi.Island hopping conjures up images of packing onto steamy, diesel-smelling ferries between Greek islands. Not in the Maldives. Here, it’s seaplanes and speedboats from the capital of Male (a direct flight from the UK); maybe the boys wouldn’t have been so bored after all.
And so it was that we found ourselves arriving like Bond girls, flying into Niyama and landing in the sea. Open since March last year, this place is fresh and funky, with Subsix the only underwater nightclub in the Maldives (and where you can take a DJing course).
There is a superbly-equipped gym and Niyama’s range of five-star beach and water villas all have popcorn and Nespresso machines, iPads and iPod docks, REN products in the open-air bathrooms and home-made ice-cream in the freezers.
Relaxing retreat: Huvafen Fushi's yoga pavilion beats working out at the gym
There are a few untruths I’d like to dispel about the Maldives. The first is prices; bottled house water (every resort makes its own water by desalination) is, in most places, free and in the four hotels we visited, cocktails averaged around USD$20-25 (£12-£15). If you don’t go mad, meals and wine are on a par with London prices.
We quickly learned the downside of island hopping; no sooner had we settled in, drinking champagne in our own private infinity pool and enjoying a massage in the glorious quiet haven of the Lime Spa, than it was time to jet off again.
From Male, a half-hour speedboat took us on to Huvafen Fushi (boat staff provide wristbands to combat sea sickness if required) and my sadness at leaving Niyama was quickly replaced with excitement - the likes of Kate Moss holiday here, and Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes visited the underwater spa during their honeymoon.
Water therapy: Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes visited Huvafen Fushi 's underwater spa during their honeymoon
Every island has its own distinct identity. Huvafen is laid-back, chic and hums with Ibiza-esque cool. Here we found busy bars, paddle boarding and another stunning sunset bar at Raw that opened last October.
On the night we arrived, LA DJ Scarlette Etienne, here on holiday with her boyfriend, had set up decks at Raw for the night. Huvafen does bring in DJs throughout the year - in October 2012 DJ Ravin (producer of the Buddha Bar series) graced the decks and in December, Mr Hudson paid a party visit.
It all sounds very glam, and before our trip Vic and I had been frantically coordinating outfits, but there was no need. Shorts, t-shirts, bikinis, beach dresses, sunglasses and flip-flops is all you need here.
On the decks: DJ Scarlette Etienne at Raw
A taste of paradise: Dining at the Edge restaurant
Food here is a complete fusion; Indian and Asian influences, as well as European and American choices, amazing fresh fish, fruit, wonderful pastries and breads cooked freshly each day at every resort.
But as well as cocktails, music and fine dining, there is plenty to do; from masses of water sports and yoga to fantastic gyms, cooking classes and coral-planting schemes.
Natural vibe: Each of Gili Lankanfushi's magical villas is set over the water
At Reethi Rah we went scuba diving at the only National Geographic PADI centre in the Maldives and trained at the newly opened Bodyism gym on the island.
There’s also a 6km running track and cycling - the island is 1.8km long, 500m wide and flat, and relatively cool under the trees - as well as virtual golf, a climbing wall, tennis courts and a croquet lawn.
In search of a more natural vibe, we then headed to the 'barefoot' Gili Lankanfushi, a 20-minute boat ride from Male, where guests’ shoes are whipped away on arrival and mobile phones discouraged.
Based on the Robinson Crusoe theme, Gili is about driftwood, stone, sand and eco-tourism. Every one of its 45 villas is set over the water - some only accessible by boat - so from the comfort of your own private deck you can watch the sharks, rays and clownfish (Nemos) dart in the crystal clear waters beneath and spy crabs clambering up the wet bungalow stills before shyly plopping back in the water as soon as you flinch. It’s magical.
Underwater delights: exploring the Maldives' underwater treasures is one of many highlights
The next day though, we had to drag ourselves back to the UK. Gili was the perfect end, so close to the airport, but it was a huge wrench and as we devoured fresh tuna burgers by the beach bar, while our speedboat waited to take us to Male, we wondered 'would the boys have enjoyed it?' I don’t doubt it. This place is paradise on earth.
